3 Dec 2013

tours tourist spots: the top six cities to visit in 2014

Hot spots: the top six cities to visit in 2014


Copacabana and Sugar Loaf mountain in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.
Copacabana and Sugar Loaf mountain in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. Photo: AFP
Among our cities to watch, Rio's ready to party like never before, Tokyo makes a comeback and Riga shines as Capital of Culture.
Rio loves to throw a party and its hosting of the 2014 World Cup and the 2016 Olympics has given the city plenty to celebrate.
Shinjuku, Tokyo at night.
Shinjuku, Tokyo at night. Photo: Getty Images
In fact, it's a great time to be a carioca, as the locals are known.
Museums are opening, urban renewal projects are reviving rundown areas downtown and at the port and many of the city's favelas, or slums, are cleaned up; so much so that one favela jazz club, The Maze, is now the city's hottest venue.
A new breed of boutique hotels is giving the classics a run for their money and there's never been a better time to visit.
Favela Santa Marta, Rio.
Favela Santa Marta, Rio. Photo: AFP
True, prices are rising but many of Rio's best experiences - from those gorgeous beaches to a freshly squeezed drink from one of the ubiquitous juice bars - can still be enjoyed for next to nothing.
DON'T GO HOME WITHOUT ...Getting your Latin beat on at antique-store-cum-salsa-club Rio Scenarium (or at least watching the locals show how it's done); taking a favela tour to discover the truth behind the hype; trying the best new Brazilian cuisine, courtesy of chefs Roberta Sudbrack, Felipe Bronze or Jean-Claude Troisgros.
- Ute Junker
Riga's art nouveau buildings.
Riga's art nouveau buildings. Photo: Corbis
There are few places in the world where you can witness a city being entirely reborn, but Detroit is currently one of them.
Bankrupted last July, the city is at rock bottom, with something like 80,000 abandoned homes, but adversity brings opportunity.
A tapas bar in San Sebastian, Spain.
A tapas bar in San Sebastian, Spain. Photo: Alamy
A burgeoning arts scene has cast light into the industrial gloom, slowly transforming Motor City's dour face. The city is an urban experiment - dinner parties are held in abandoned buildings, urban farms have sprouted - turning Motown into Gotown.
Cheap rents and empty structures have enticed artists into city spaces once dominated by industry. The Museum of Contemporary Art Detroit is in an abandoned car dealership, while the Russell Industrial Centre is a former car-body plant now occupied by more than 100 artists.
In Corktown, by the abandoned central railway station, the revival has been led by food.
Glasgow, Scotland.
Glasgow, Scotland. Photo: Alamy
Here, one-time model Philip Cooley opened the celebrated Slows Bar-B-Q, spawning a gourmet strip.
Nearby, Cooley has also created Ponyride, providing cheap space for artists, including a letterpress studio, a fencing school, dance studio and denim maker.
DON'T GO HOME WITHOUT ...Paying homage to the velvet voices of Detroit at the Motown Historical Museum; going polka-dot crazy at the open-air art installation of the Heidelberg Project; sampling ribs or pulled pork at Slows Bar-B-Q.
- Andrew Bain
It's not just the Commonwealth Games. You could visit Glasgow next year purely to witness July's sporting extravaganza, to enjoy the feeling of a city in celebration mode while supporting Australia's athletes. But that wouldn't give you anywhere near the full story of what Glasgow has to offer in 2014.
This is a city that has come of age, reinventing itself from Edinburgh's rough cousin into a hub for arts and culture, with a thriving music scene, great bars and burgeoning choices for diners.
It's the home of world-class museums and art galleries, huge spaces featuring renowned artists, as well as smaller galleries displaying the works of up-and-coming locals.
But, as they say, there's more. Next year's Homecoming Scotland, a year-long celebration of the country's history and culture, will include plenty of Glasgow-based events, including theatrical performances, open-air concerts and sporting displays.
And if you happen to be in the city on September 18, you'll witness history in the making as Scotland votes on independence.
DON'T GO HOME WITHOUT ...Visiting the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum; seeing a band at King Tut's Wah Wah Hut; eating and drinking at Hillhead Book Club.
- Ben Groundwater
When Tokyo was selected to host the 2020 Olympics over Madrid and Istanbul, one could imagine a collective sigh of relief in the Japanese capital.
It has been a long two years since the earthquake and tsunami disaster. But all eyes are on the future now and dazzling civic proposals promise to transform the city in the lead-up to the Games.This makes 2014 a terrific time to explore Tokyo: it is fully recovered, but not yet overwhelmed by construction and (even larger) crowds.
While Tokyo has enough major sites to satiate the most hyperactive traveller, take the time to see another side of things: for every Shibuya there is a quiet neighbourhood like Nishiazabu, stuffed with hidden restaurants; for every major museum in Ueno there is a less-frequented alternative like the Musee Tomo.
Tokyo has some of the best shopping strips around but it's also possible to skip retail therapy entirely for intimate parks and local bathhouses.
- Lance Richardson
DON'T GO HOME WITHOUT ...Eating exquisite sushi at Tsukiji, the biggest fish market in the world; exploring the painstaking art of Japanese animation at the Ghibli Museum, Mitaka (ghibli-museum.jp/en), recognised by animators all over the world; grabbing an evening cocktail at New York Bar, high above the dazzling neon streets of Shinjuku (tokyo.park.hyatt.com).
The Latvian capital has a mediaeval heart, a funky vibe and a river running through it - enough you'd think to commend anywhere.
But 2014 also sees the Baltic's biggest city hosting a year-long calendar of events as Europe's Capital of Culture (riga2014.org).
Highlights will include an exhibition devoted to the past 500 years of the printed book, a 1914 exhibition at the National Museum of Art (showcasing a view of World War I as seen by famous European artists), summer solstice festivals, the World Choir Games (bringing together 20,000 singers from 90 countries) and Northern Europe's largest festival of light. It was awarded the 2014 honours for being no slouch in the cultural department.
The city is heritage listed for 13th to 15th century buildings and 19th-century wooden buildings in neoclassical style - the finest art nouveau buildings in Europe.
DON'T GO HOME WITHOUT ...Learning how modern Latvia survived both the Nazis and the Soviets by visiting the Occupation Museum; sipping cocktails and taking in the view from the 26th floor of Skyline Bar before dancing at Club Essential; visiting the Central Market on Rifleman Square where 1250 sellers flog food (and pretty much everything else) in five old Zeppelin hangars.
- Max Anderson
Set on the Bay of Biscay, the city of San Sebastian has emerged as yet another reason to put Spain on the wish-list for 2014.
The motivation is food. This Basque seaport has a trio of three-Michelin-star restaurants and another six diners with at least one star, more relative to its population than anywhere else.
What sets the city apart from the distinguished cookery that constitutes the norm on the Iberian peninsula is a cuisine born of proximity to the sea and a long history of scraping poverty that turns even the noses of cows into a piquant dish. High-level culinary consciousness permeates every San Sebastian eating experience, from the giant La Bretxa market to its bars.
The essential dish is pintxos (pin-chos), which means spike, since they're often served on a skewer. The Basque version of tapas, pintxos include bite-sized snacks of tiger mussels, fried anchovies stuffed with paprika, and foie gras with figs and pressed cheese made from unpasteurised sheep milk.
Fraternal bonhomie reigns in the bars where pintxos are served, but phone-booth dimensions and shout-out ordering can be a challenge. Too hard? Join a San Sebastian Food tour organised by Brit Jon Warren, with cooking classes as an optional side order. See sansebastianfood.com.
DON'T GO HOME WITHOUT ...Trying the kokotxas al pil-pil (hake cheeks, a traditional Basque favourite) at Ibai; booking in at the belle epoque Hotel Maria Cristina; sampling the mushroom pintxos at Bar Martinez.
- Michael Gebicki


Read more: http://www.smh.com.au/travel/hot-spots-the-top-six-cities-to-visit-in-2014-20131127-2y9p9.html#ixzz2mSvIxEtT

Hanoi to Luang Prabang cycle with Ben Groundwater


Hanoi to Luang Prabang cycle with Ben Groundwater


hanoi729x410
Hanoi by bike
Enjoy a spectacular journey of discovery from North Vietnam to Laos in the company of Fairfax travel blogger and columnist Ben Groundwater. We will explore at handlebar level this friendly land, where exceptional hospitality is guaranteed. Without a doubt cycling is one of the best ways to explore a country and our complete service includes comfortable geared bikes, a support crew and backup vehicle.
With Fairfax's Backpacker blogger and author of the entertaining travel memoir Five Ways to Carry a Goat as host, this will be a unique and inspiring trip suited to travellers keen to explore the mysteries of a country that, until recently, has had limited contact with the outside world.

Australia's best beach towns

Summer is coming: Australia's best beach towns

Backpacker haven is all grown up ... Airlie Beach, Queensland.
Backpacker haven is all grown up ... Airlie Beach, Queensland. Photo: Tourism Queensland
With summer just around the corner, Ute Junker leaves no grain of sand unturned in her guide to the best beach towns on Australia's east coast.
It's the great Australian summer ritual: packing up and heading for the beach. But not all beach towns are created equal – some are fab for families, or places that party all night long; others are low on action and big on relaxation. Find the one that fits you with our handy guide to the 10 best beach towns along the east coast of the country just in time for summer 2013-14.

Water world: Sorrento offers a beach holiday with a buzz.
Water world: Sorrento offers a beach holiday with a buzz.

Best for: families

Torquay, Victoria

Vibe: Victoria's surf capital is a hit with families, who make the most of the water sports on offer, from swimming at the sheltered Front Beach to snorkelling at Point Danger (never fear – it's far less scary than the name suggests).
Seaside luxury: Peppers Salt Resort and Spa Kingscliff.
Seaside luxury: Peppers Salt Resort and Spa Kingscliff.

The world's safari hottest destinations for 2014: countries


The world's hottest destinations for 2014: countries


The Hornbjarg sea cliffs in Iceland's Westfjords.
The Hornbjarg sea cliffs in Iceland's Westfjords. Photo: Getty Images
Traveller's globetrotting contributors cast their votes for the big six countries set to make their presence felt next year.
COLOMBIA
As peace settles in Colombia and visitors seek to broaden their South America travel, this once-infamous country is the continent's slumbering tourism giant.
Lencois Maranhenses lagoons in Brazil.
Lencois Maranhenses lagoons in Brazil. Photo: Alamy
In the past 10 years, tourism here has grown by 300 per cent but still there remains a small window of opportunity to visit before the tourism boom really strikes.
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What you'll find is a place of remarkable diversity and distinct regional identities. Its cities are surprisingly cosmopolitan and varied, from the cool mountain heights of Bogota, to rejuvenated stunner Medellin, or the sultry Caribbean vibe of Cartagena.
The country's natural wonder is Tayrona National Park, where baking Caribbean beaches lie in sight of the snow-tipped peaks of the world's highest coastal range.
Brazil's National Museum in Brasilia.
Brazil's National Museum in Brasilia. Photo: Alamy
There's also the hiking playground of El Cocuy National Park in the Andes and the steaming volcanoes of Los Nevados National Park that back the World Heritage-listed coffee region outside of Pereira.
Visit the salsa dens of Cali, South America's second-largest carnaval at Barranquilla, and the 5000-year-old rock sculptures at San Agustin.
DON'T GO HOME WITHOUT ...Cycling in Bogota's Sunday ciclovia, when streets close to cars; lazing on a beach in Tayrona National Park; or taking a Pablo Escobar tour in Medellin.
A fruit seller on Cartagena's colourful streets in Colombia.
A fruit seller on Cartagena's colourful streets in Colombia. Photo: Getty Images
- Andrew Bain
ICELAND
Even if you've never visited, Iceland seems familiar, with Reykjavik's nightlife and the Blue Lagoon almost tourism cliches.
Beach in Tayrona National Park, Colombia.
Beach in Tayrona National Park, Colombia. Photo: Getty Images
However, this year's hit novel Burial Rites by Australian Hannah Kent, set in remote northern Iceland, has helped draw attention to an island beyond the fire and ice.
Hiring a four-wheel-drive vehicle and getting off the sole ring road in Europe's least densely inhabited country - population 320,000 - is a rare adventure. In the little visited but wildly beautiful Westfjords region, dirt roads wind through snow-peaked mountains, skirt plunging fjords and follow glacial valleys to the sea.
You can free camp behind empty beaches and kayak offshore among minke whales and seals. In neighbouring North Iceland,
Vanuatu locals.
Vanuatu locals. Photo: David Kirkland
there is diving in freshwater tinted like blue curacao in inland fissures, and on towering undersea fumaroles in Eyjafjord.
Icelandic people, warm and funny, and new Nordic cuisine, reinventing traditional dishes such as cod cheeks, add to the pull of what is, following 2008's currency devaluation, a much more affordable destination.
DON'T GO HOME WITHOUT ...Trekking on Hornstrandir, Westfjords' uninhabited nature reserve, closer to Greenland than Reykjavik; communing with puffins on 400-metre cliffs at Latrabjarg, Iceland's westernmost point; visiting gnarled magma fields, vents belching thermal steam and convulsive mud-pots around Lake Myvatn.
- Daniel Scott
MYANMAR
Myanmar is hot, hot, hot and for two reasons: firstly, the door has been opened on a piece of Asia that has been isolated from the pressures of development (and, indeed, tourism) for five decades; and secondly, it offers so much to the traveller it is hard to know where to begin.
The country has all the beauty of Thailand's coastal and mountain regions but only a fraction of it has been seen by outsiders.
Famous treasures such as the Shwedagon Pagoda, the temples of Bagan and the city of Mandalay are not only culturally important, they pack a serious punch.
And the river city of Yangon presents an intriguing blend, with half seeming as though nothing has changed since the British abandoned it in 1948, and the other half frantically redeveloping itself into a megalopolis.
Perhaps because the Asian century is homogenising so much of the region, Myanmar is truly a "last chance to see" (Malaysia/Thailand 30 years ago, Vietnam 15 years ago, Cambodia 10 years ago - take your pick).
But the "Burmese gold rush" is well-named, with foreigners rushing in to stake their claim on what's likely to be a fast and furious reinvention.
Tourist infrastructure is already taking a firm hold: mini backpacker districts are blooming and there are even five-star retreats, if you know where to look.
DON'T GO HOME WITHOUT ...Getting off the beaten track (even behind the domestic tourist hot spot of Lake Inle, there are mountain villages that have never seen a westerner); cruising the "Road to Mandalay"; or taking drinks on a Friday night in the bar of 1901 Yangon waterfront hotel The Strand.
- Max Anderson
BRAZIL
Exploring Brazil, a country bigger than Australia, can seem a daunting proposition.
However, a new alliance between LAN Airlines and Brazil's TAM has made getting around the country easier than ever before. That makes this a great time to create your own Brazilian cocktail.
Start off with a splash of natural wonder. The mighty Amazon, Iguacu Falls and the Pantanal wetlands are well known but Brazil has plenty of other lesser-known marvels, such as the surreal Lencois Maranhenses, a series of white-sand dunes studded with turquoise lagoons.
Throw in a dash of architecture to taste - either a colonial gem such as Paraty or Ouro Preto, or the ultra-modern fantasy that is Brasilia - then add an African inflection with a shot of Salvador de Bahia, former slaving port and now party capital.
Top it off with some big-city buzz courtesy of Rio de Janeiro or Sao Paulo, add a sprinkling of beach time and that irresistible samba beat, and you have a true taste of Brazil.
DON'T GO HOME WITHOUT ...Kayaking the Amazon; grooving in Salvador de Bahia, Brazil's most African city; or savouring the colonial delights of Ouro Preto.
- Ute Junker
OMAN
Mega-cities Dubai and Abu Dhabi have experienced spectacular growth in the past decade or so, but for some, all that glitz is more headache than heaven.
That's why neighbouring Oman is having its moment.
A few years ago, this small country, which is still ruled by a sultan, was just opening up to tourists but in 2014, with the unveiling of two significant and stunning new hotel projects - the Alila resort at Jabal Akhdar in the rugged central mountains and the Rotana resort in Salalah in the lush south - there will be more options to experience Oman's breathtaking natural beauty, from poetic desert to green mountains to some of the most beautiful coastline on earth, edging a pristine sea that's ideal for diving and water sports.
Oman's capital, Muscat, is only a 45-minute flight from Dubai but it is like stepping into a page of exotica from The Arabian Nights. Sultan Qaboos has modernised his country and kept it one of the most stable in the region, but he has done so without compromising the authentic charms of an entrancing culture.
DON'T GO HOME WITHOUT ...Visiting the sublime Sultan Qaboos Mosque in Muscat; shopping in the exotic souk at Mutrah; or climbing the fort in the old capital, Nizwa.
- Lee Tulloch
VANUATU
Every year, an increasing number of Australians discover that Vanuatu is spectacular, landing in Port Vila and fanning out over the extraordinary archipelago of 83 islands.
With rumours swirling in Hollywood of a South Pacific remake, there's a good chance the world is about to be let in on the secret, too. This makes 2014 ideal for a bit of adventure: forget the cruise ships; pack a snorkel, and bunny-hop from Efate to one of the lesser-known spots.
Malekula is the place to go for astonishing cultural traditions and rugged jungle treks through old cannibal sites (malampa.travel); Espiritu Santo is famed for its diving, particularly around the sunken SS President Coolidge.
For something completely different - and utterly bizarre - head to Pentecost Island in April and May for the land diving festival (think bungee jumping off a tower made of sticks).
DON'T GO HOME WITHOUT ... Staking out a luxury safari tent on the private island of Ratua, Espiritu Santo (ratua.com/en); getting up close to one of the world's most accessible active volcanoes, Yasur on Tanna Island; exploring the abandoned detritus of World War II by diving at Million Dollar Point.


Read more: http://www.smh.com.au/travel/the-worlds-hottest-destinations-for-2014-countries-20131127-2y9p8.html#ixzz2mSqKwVUz

DUBAI Fireworks explode from world's tallest building in Expo celebration




Fireworks explode from world's tallest building in Expo 


celebration


Dubai beat off opposition from Brazil, Russia and Turkey on Wednesday to win the right to host the 2020 World Expo, 
sparking celebrations in the Gulf city and a stunning fireworks display at the world's tallest building.
City authorities declared Thursday a school holiday to celebrate the victory.
The Burj Khalifa tower, which stands 828-metres high, was lit up with the pyrotechnics, while fireworks were also set off elsewhere in the coastal city.
Fireworks illuminate the sky around Dubai's Burj Khalifa, the world's tallest building, after the Emirati city was chosen to host the World Expo 2020.
Fireworks illuminate the sky around Dubai's Burj Khalifa, the world's tallest building, after the Emirati city was chosen to host the World Expo 2020. Photo: AFP
There were jubilant crowds at the foot of the tower and in Dubai's shopping malls.
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"I am so proud to be living in the city of the future," beamed Indian student Depika, who said he was born in Dubai and had seen the city "develop very quickly".
"This announcement makes me even prouder to be Emirati," said Yacoub al-Shamsi, whose wife donned a scarf in the colours of the UAE flag over her black abaya cloak.
Dubai won the right on Wednesday to host the 2020 World Expo, beating off competition from the Brazilian city of Sao Paulo, Yekaterinburg in Russia and Izmir in Turkey in a vote by members of the world fair body.
Dubai won the right on Wednesday to host the 2020 World Expo, beating off competition from the Brazilian city of Sao Paulo, Yekaterinburg in Russia and Izmir in Turkey in a vote by members of the world fair body.Photo: Reuters
The Gulf city beat Russia's Ekaterinberg in the final round of voting in Paris to clinch a prestigious event that is credited with delivering a huge boost to tourism and business in the host city.
Dubai, the economic and transport hub of the United Arab Emirates, won 116 votes in the third round, comfortably beating Ekaterinberg with 47. There was one abstention.
The four candidate cities, which also included Brazil's Sao Paulo and Turkey's Izmir, had pulled out all the stops during 20-minute presentations before voting by the 168 member states of the International Exhibitions Bureau (BIE), headquartered in Paris, which oversees the organisation of the events.
The Emirates kicked off their presentation by pitching Dubai as a futuristic, glitzy city.
The victory for Dubai - home to the world's tallest tower, largest man-made island and one of the world's busiest airports - means the World Expo will be hosted by an Arab country for the first time.
It also confirmed the growing success of Gulf states in bidding for international events. Nearby Qatar, somewhat controversially, is to host the 2022 football World Cup.
"We renew our promise to astonish the world in 2020," Dubai's ruler, Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid al-Maktoum, said after the win.
"Dubai Expo2020 will breathe new life into the ancient role of the Middle East as a melting pot for cultures and creativity," he said in a statement.
He promised the Dubai expo will "undoubtedly stand out as the best edition in the history of the event in terms of preparation and presentation".
Job boom in tourist sector
According to UAE officials, 40 percent of the estimated 227,000 new jobs expected to be created as a result of Expo will be in the tourism and travel sectors.
The site chosen for the event, is spread over 438 hectares and located between the international airports of Dubai and Abu Dhabi, the capital of the Emirates.
Brazil, which is already gearing up to welcome the World Cup next year and the Olympic Games in 2016, had roped in famed Brazilian musician Gilberto Gil to play versions of Bob Marley's reggae hit "No Woman No Cry" and John Lennon's "Imagine" for its presentation. But it was in vain as Sao Paulo failed to get past the first round.
Izmir, a city on Turkey's western coast, was eliminated in the second round of voting. It had already bid for a chance to host the 2015 Expo but lost out to Milan.
Ekaterinberg's pitch included a video appeal by Prime Minister Dimitry Medvedev to "give Russia a chance". With a population of 1.4 million, Ekaterinburg is Russia's fourth-largest city and had hoped to capitalise on its recent endorsement by Forbes magazine as Russia's best place to do business.
The World Expo, a modern-day successor to the Great Exhibitions of the 19th and early 20th centuries, showcases technology, architecture and culture.
Shanghai was the last host city and Milan is next in line in 2015. The Chinese city set a record by attracting a record 73 million victors to the event.



Argentina Machu Picchu - the ancient city of the Inca Empire

Machu Picchu - the ancient city of the Inca Empire


I don't remember the beginning of our journey to Machu Picchu that well... Dima and I flew to Cusco (3600 m above the sea level), and after continuous bargaining hired a cab for local sightseeing. I felt sort of alright in the beginning, but when we arrived to Pisac, the ancient Inca Fortress (about 4000m altitude), my un-acclimatized body inevitably gave up to the altitude sickness.
We planned to spend a night on the way to Machu Picchu in Ollantaytambo at 2600-2700m altitude. I am grateful that Dima booked a hotel there and not in Cusco. I remember only one thing - dragging my feet from taxi to the hotel room and crashing on my bed.
Next morning we took a train to Machu Picchu. By the way, curiously enough there are two types of trains on route: Cusco - Ollyanta - Machu Picchu: one type for locals, and one for tourists (not sure if it is true for the rest of the country though). Meaning if you are a foreigner, you won't be able to purchase a local train ticket. It's definitely something to keep in mind when planning a trip.
The train arrives to a little town located at the bottom of the canyon. One can reach the ancient ruins by a long tiring hike, or by a tourist bus. There are no taxicabs here. In fact, the number of tourists and transportation is very limited here. One more "catch" for a forgetful traveler: if you didn't order your museum tickets online beforehand, you are doomed - there is no ticket registry at the entrance! Number of visitors is limited to 2000 a day for the general area of Machu Picchu, and some corners of the ancient City of Incas are even more restricted.
Machu Picchu
Being aware of the transportation challenges around Machu Picchu, Dima (sighing and grinding his teeth) booked us a room in the only hotel located by the very entrance to the museum: Sanctuary Lodge. Obviously, monopolization has never helped to maintain reasonable prices. Our very modest room for two with nice little yard was $1200 per night. Please note that the hotel is located a bit lower than the Incas City, so there was no view to speak of. This butter pill of the unspeakable price was sweetened by the fact, that it included everything: food (a modest dinner for two in a local restaurant would cost you about $100), a mini bar and even a Jacuzzi on one of the terraces in the jungle. However, the most attractive feature of them all for us was the location - only 50 meters to the museum entrance. And future events proved that we made a right choice.
And so we have arrived. I quickly assembled the helicopter and tried to lift it off right in front of our room. Despite the altitude of about 2500m, our machine worked just fine. Only our GPS navigator (same as in Nasca!) refused to detect even a minimum number of satellites. Good that we are quite experienced by now to fly this helicopter manually.
Prepared for the first flight, we headed to the museum entrance. The sight of our helicopter shocked the lady at the checkpoint. It took her a while to understand what we were saying about this equipment and how it's used. Following events did not go according to our plan. We were prohibited to bring this equipment onto the museum territory. We reached the Head Manager. This very important man, who spoke zero English, was adamant: "You can only use a professional photo equipment with a special permit from the Ministry of Culture in Cusco. (Round trip would take a whole day, and as we know from our Nasca experience, a person in charge may not even be there). If there is no permit - leave your equipment in a locker by the entrance."
All our attempts to explain (with the help of young museum workers, who volunteered to interpret for us) that we didn't have time to return to Cusco, and that we were willing to pay for the permit on the spot did not make any difference. We used up all our tricks: showing our photos of Egyptian pyramids and other wonders of the world, bagging, offering cash. Nothing! His face softened a bit, but it seemed that he had no interest in taking on responsibility and helping us. As I understood from the conversation with the young associates, the fact that it was no office, nor ticket registry near by meant that there was no way to sell us tickets for professional photography, like they did in Egypt. And we were not the first group that faced this problem in Machu Picchu.
Mt. Huyana Picchu
One of the museum workers, who sincerely tried to help us, suggested to send a written request to Cusco and obtain the permit remotely. We jumped on this opportunity and sent an email to Cusco right way. Later we realized that the Ministry is not bothered by problems of foreign photographers who traveled through half of the world with a helicopter in their suitcase. Not that day, nor any of the following days we haven't received a reply.
So that night we withdrew after our first attempt. We left the helicopter in the hotel and rushed uphill to shoot panoramas from a tripod. The museum security was ever watchful: any large bag must be left in a locker by the entrance. Even our panoramic head drew suspicious looks from security, so Dima had to swear that this was amateur equipment. They then left us in peace, but not for long - the museum was closing at 5pm. There was absolutely no way to stay for the sunset. The security couldn't be bribed, as they are afraid to lose their jobs, so money has no influence there.
Sad and disappointed we walked towards the exit. Trying to bug the big boss again we figured out that he - being a big boss - left earlier today. There was a small group of guides by the entrance. One of the guys asked us if we needed help.
- Yes, we replied, we need help. Let's step aside and have a talk.
After a long conversation the guy offered to take our helicopter through the security in his backpack. There was a chance of success, as they didn't check guides that vigorously.
Next morning we began with a raid behind enemy lines :) During the night I disassembled the helicopter, and in the morning three of us packed it parts into backpacks and pockets. I went first carrying remote control and about 7-8 kilos of power batteries in my backpack. I managed to snick in under the radar of yesterday's lady at the checkpoint along with the morning crowd. Our guide arrived to the rendezvous point in 10 minutes. Disembodied helicopter did not fit in his backpack, so we covered it with some plastic bags, which however didn't alarm the security. Dima joined our group in a few more minutes.
The guide suggested starting our session at Huayna Picchu (Wayna Picchu), the remote mountain, which allows a panoramic view of Machu Picchu. There is almost no security there, only tourists taking endless photos of Machu Picchu. In order to access this mountain one has to purchase online tickets beforehand and go through another checkpoint, which opens at 7am. Only 200 visitors are let through. Next group of 200 people can go in only after 10am.
We stood in line. While waiting for the checkpoint to open Dima went to take a few ground level photos of Machu Picchu, and I started filming a documentary. After a few of my comments in Russian for the film, a man standing right behind me introduced himself as "Konstantin from Russia". So we started to talk.
It is a very small world indeed. Konstantin knew about AirPano.ru, and even went to Greenland with one of our founders - Oleg Gaponyuk - a couple of months ago. Naturally, there were 4 of us going up the mountain after that. Our guide went first, jumping from boulder to boulder with ease, Konstantin followed him, then Dima and myself, breathing heavily under our backpacks.
Ascending Huayna Picchu requires good physical condition. The entire path is made of steep stone steps, where one has to use a rope or a wire stretched along side the trail. My mistake was to wear rubber "crocs" which are absolutely not appropriate for this type of climbing. Can't tell you how much I suffered on my way up!
The only flight
We picked a spot to fly the helicopter. We were looking for the closest proximity to Machu Picchu, but anyway, to my opinion, this mountain didn't work for our purpose at all - too far away from the Inka City. Nevertheless we decided to take off. The guide wisely disappeared: he didn't want to loose his license in case the museum security gets to us. He never asked to be paid for his help. Thank you very much, good man! Only because of him people of Planet Earth will be able to admire Machu Picchu from bird's eye view :)
I quickly assembled the machine, took a deep breath and took off into the abyss. It was rather challenging to fly in strong wind currents near the observation point. However we managed to shoot several spherical panoramas. As soon as the helicopter landed we heard applauding behind our backs: quite a few tourists, apparently, have been watching us from different spots, enjoying our little show.
Unfortunately, after our second flight a piercing whistle came from the top of the mountain and in a couple of minutes we saw a museum worker running towards us. Breathing heavily he couldn't say anything but "Pasaporte!" for the first minute. He grabbed our passports and offered to walk back to the administration. It's worth saying that Machu Picchu security is organized very well. All personnel were in good shape, attentive, equipped with radio sets and apparently never accept bribes.
We had no choice but to pack and walk down. As soon as I took the helicopter apart and put it in the plastic bag, the security officer immediately grabbed it from my hands. Konstantin was taken to the administration with us too. I suggested he conveniently ‘get lost' on the way back, but he said that he was not afraid of the problems and would resolve this situation with us. Konstantin spoke Spanish, so this could help in our negotiation with the authorities.
Our escort grew as we descended. We walk through Machu Picchu under an impressive convoy: 3 security guards before us, and 3 behind us - straight to the Chef of the park police. With a help of one of the museum people named Marco, we once again told our story about our non-for-profit project, about lack of time for obtaining a permit, and about willing to pay for the photography right now. Dictated by Marco, the Chef has been writing a protocol for about an hour and a half. They questioned us about how we managed to take the equipment through the security with a special attention. As if people saw us with one of the guides, so "please, tell us his name". We told them that we knew nothing of a guide, that we carried the equipment in our backpacks, and nobody paid attention to it. Museum personnel and Chef of Police pretended that they believed us.
Then they invited their "engineer", who inspected our cameras looking for prohibited photos of Peru's famous sights. Improvising, we made up a new legend for the locals: we only made test flights, and so we couldn't photograph Machu Picchu. True enough, the engineer didn't find any "criminal" images in our cameras. But of course, the entire photo session was hidden on Dima, don't ask me where :)
Our hotel checkout time was approaching. Dima asked the police to let us go and take care of it, and to my surprise they agreed. They only asked to come back later to sign some paperwork and to collect our equipment.
Tired but happy with our little victory we went to pack our stuff in the hotel. On the way, while thinking that we should have let more time to shoot Machu Picchu, Dima suddenly remembered that we had an extra day before our departure from Cusco.  Originally we didn't plan to stay in this little and very expensive Tourist Heaven, but after considering all odds we decided to repeat our "assault" of the City.
By the way, if you dare to spend one more night in the Sanctuary Lodge, you can get a discount. Usually visitors spend only one night here. We were lucky that they had vacancies, so we received a 30% discount for the second night.
After lunch we decided to go photographing the city from inside. We stopped by the police office and signed the protocol. They also asked us to seal our signatures with our index finger prints. How peculiar. I took my helicopter and brought it back to the hotel.
News about Russian violators of the air space spread in Machu Picchu like fire.  From that moment on every single museum worker knew our faces. Everybody smiled at us, greeted us, and at the same time watched our bags and us closely. We smiled in reply, took ground level photos of Machu Picchu and looked for a way to fly again. By the end of the day we found it.
Unfortunately, our Russian colleague Konstantin could not stay for one more night in Machu Picchu: his trip had to continue to Bogota (Colombia). In a few days he sent us a text message: he was robbed right on a street in Colombia, and so his camera, his backpack and all his photos taken in Peru were gone.
As for us, we decided to fly our helicopter in the morning right from the hotel. Officially the hotel was located outside of the museum territory, and - theoretically, if we flew really high - we could photograph the entire City.
It rained all night. In the morning a large cloud was right in front of our window. Our chances for success were close to zero. I won't event start describing our disappointment. Well, there was no other choice but to go back to the museum.
While Dima shot ground level panoramas, I made a short time-lapse: one hour in the life of the ancient Inca City. The film shows how quickly the weather changes; how clouds appear from nowhere and rapidly dissolve; how the wind changes its course. One moment the sun shines bright, and the next moment it's behind the clouds. 

So we got our good weather finally. Of course, there was no guarantee, because you cannot see the City from the hotel, but we were willing to try nevertheless in one of those short sunny intervals.
So I went out to the little yard in front of our hotel room and guided the helicopter up into the air. Not so high, not more than 100 meters. This immediately attracted the security, blowing whistles again. Paying no attention to them I changed the battery and took off as high as I could - the helicopter was almost invisible in the sky. Whistles became stronger, but they were helpless as they were on the museum territory, on the terrace, about 50 meters above us. After the second flight the sun was gone. We moved our equipment indoors, just in case. Interesting that nobody came to arrest us this time. Later I tried to talk people at the checkpoint into letting me fly from the bus station in front of the checkpoint, but they told me if I try it again, they'd call the police. Then, having left the RC helicopter at the hotel, we decided to climb the second mountain's top where the ancient Inca city lies down at the foot of the both mountains.  The first mountain is called Huyana Picchu, the second one - Machu Picchu, which is visited by the tourists much less.
The path to this mountain goes through about 500m elevation. The trail is made of stone steps. All steps are counted: 1700! Usually the path takes one hour and a half, but we spent about two hours climbing up with our backpacks. We got into the storm on the way and got soaked through and through.
The view of Machu Picchu from the top of that mountain was magnificent! It is absolutely worth time and effort. Unfortunately, there was almost no sun light on Machu Picchu. And after our descent the weather turned bad completely: it rained and rained till the dark.
Flying in the mountains in such weather is a suicide, so we quickly packed our equipment, and went to say good-bye to Machu Picchu, the most famous treasure of Peru. New travels and new photographic adventures awaited us: Cusco - Lima - Santiago - Easter Islands. But this is a completely different story...